Sunday, August 20, 2023

Nanortalik, Greenland

Hello from Nanortalik, Greenland! Today was another spectacular day.
View of Nanortalik Greenland
With the lack of sleep I'm not sure how I made it onto the first tender this morning, but I did. Last night I was fascinated by all the icebergs I saw it took me forever to get into bed. (If you didn't see yesterday's iceberg video, be sure to check it out here near the bottom of the post.) Then when I got in bed I spent the rest of the night tossing and turning, trying to find a comfortable spot for my knees. I was so obsessed with finding the sweet spot that I completely missed the Northern Lights out my balcony door at 1:30 in the morning. I saw the pictures one of the crew members took but it's not the same as seeing them in person.

I finally gave up on trying to sleep at about five this morning. I wrapped myself in a blanket like a mummy and sat on the balcony, waiting for the sun to rise. At 5:09 AM my view looked like this
orange sunrise in Greenland
See the icebergs out there?
so I knew the sun had to be following soon. But it was another hour and a half before it popped over the mountain. Not even where I was expecting it! I wasn't expecting the jet trail to look 3D either, but I'll gladly take it.
sunrise in Greenland
Being up so early made it easy for me to get on the first tender to shore. Not only was I on the first tender, I was the first person on the first tender. In almost 20 years of cruising that's never, ever happened before. Lucky me. Something important to know about tendering in Nanortalik - there is space for only one tender to unload and load at a time. It slows down the tendering process greatly. I can't imagine what it would look like for a larger ship. How would all those passengers make it to shore and back? Makes me thankful I'm on a smaller ship, although those returning midafternoon reported having to wait in line more than an hour to get on a tender for the ride back.
stepping off cruise tender in Nanortailk Greenland
The way the dock is built the space between the yellow steps and the tender is quite large.
Thank goodness for my wheelchair assist guys!

Once onshore I found the scooter-ing surface just outside the port to be difficult. Scooters, wheelchairs, and walkers are going to have a hard time with this area. So instead of going left out of the port area like everyone else did I went right and found actual pavement that took me everywhere I wanted to go. Another benefit of not following the crowd.
Not this way for me
In an empty town on an early Sunday morning I spent my day wandering. 
Island Princess anchored in Nanotalik Greenland
I first headed towards the church but it was still all closed up.
outdoor view of Nanortalik Greenland
I went to the area where the open air museum was. It was closed - and not handicapped accessible anyway - but I was able to look around outside. I found out later it opened at 8AM and was $10 so I left in just the nick of time. Didn’t want to have to pay for something I couldn’t do.
view from Nanortalik outdoor museumview from Nanortalik outdoor museumNanortalik outdoor museum
Nanortalik outdoor museum
Thanks to the narrow path I can't get to the rock house
Nanortalik outdoor museum
Thanks to the big gravel I can't get to the iceberg
I really wanted to climb to the viewing platform at the base of the flagpole. I carefully climbed the narrow dirt and grass path to get to the bottom of the stairs. I know it doesn't look steep, but it was for me. You can see I had to leave Scooter behind.
Viewpoint at Nanortalik outdoor museumNanortalik outdoor museum
But when I saw the steps? Uh, no. I think I might have been able to make it up the wooden ones since there was a railing, but the steep cement steps with no railing? No way in hell.
steps to viewpoint at outdoor museum at Nanortalik Greenland
I called it good and took a picture without touching a step.
view from Nanortalik outdoor museum
Just like our visit yesterday in Qaqortoq the houses were colorful, but thankfully today the hills were less steep. (Notice a theme? Steep = bad)
colorful buildings in Nanortalik Greenland
One group was heading to their boat but I was pretty much alone
blue white grey home in Nanortalik Greenland
Three colors in one
Colorful homes in Nanortalik GreenlandColorful homes in Nanortalik GreenlandColorful homes in Nanortalik GreenlandColorful homes in Nanortalik GreenlandColorful homes in Nanortalik Greenland
clothesline in Nanortalilk Greenland
Gotta love houses with clotheslines
blue home on hill in Nanortalik Greenland
I did make my way up and down some hills. Without them I would never have found the cemetery on the other side. 
colorful homes on hill in Nanortalik Greenlandcemetery overlooking water in Nanoralik Greenlandcolorful homes near cemetery in Nanortalik Greenland
I found many homes with walkers or wheelchairs near the little wooden walkways. Can you imagine how hard it would be to get in your house with terrain like this?
a walker near wooden walkway in Nanortalik Greenland
I also discovered the soccer field (this one's for you, Ed), a mural, and some flowers.
Nanortalik Stadium in Greenland
What a view
Mural on blue building in NanortalikPurple lupines in Nanortalik Greenland
Looking at my photo locations, I did pretty good for a gal on a scooter in Greenland.
There were only a few of us riding the tender back to the ship because it was still early. Guess who rode on top again?
top of Island Princess cruise ship tender
Doing all my exploring in the morning left the afternoon for sitting in the sun on the balcony. Look to the right and see this..
icebergs in water in Nanortalik, Greenland
Icebergs again
and look to the left and see this...
Greenland landscape
It was another glorious day in Greenland. Word on the street ship is the Northern Lights will be showing themselves again tonight. Can't wait! If they appear (and I'm awake), I'll pop a picture in here later. 
Update: Two hours standing in the cold in the middle of the night on a windy cruise ship deck and this is the best I can do.

We have four sea days as we make our way back to Southampton. I expect I'll be back before then with some catch up stuff. See you then, whenever then is!

Saturday, August 19, 2023

Qaqortoq, Greenland

Hello from Qaqortoq, Greenland!
landscape view of Qaqortoq, Greenland
Qaqortoq really needs closer up pictures to see the beauty of the colors.
colorful home on hillside in Qaqortoq, Greenlandcolorful homes on hillside in Qaqortoq, Greenland
But it didn't start out so colorful this morning. It started like this:
Even so, I knew I wanted to be on the first tender to shore so I made my way to the Wheelhouse Bar before 7 AM to grab my tender ticket. The Captain held us for a while because of the visibility but by 7:30 we were on our way. It was only a few minutes to get to shore and was almost as foggy there. 
Holland America cruise ship anchored in Qaqortoq, Greenland on a foggy day
Just us and Holland America out there
The fog didn't stop me from exploring about everywhere I could with the scooter. With no sidewalks and crazy fast drivers I had to be cautious on the straightaways, the curves, and the hills I tackled. I wished the fog didn't obscure everything but it did add a bit of Greenland-ish feeling to the day.
colorful homes on hillside in Qaqortoq, Greenlandcolorful homes on hillside in Qaqortoq, Greenlandcemetery in Qaqortoq, Greenlandlocal vendors in Qaqortoq, Greenland
Thankfully at that time of morning no one else was out and about other than the walking tour folks. I kept running into them again and again so I figured I must be hitting all the good spots.
walking tour group in Qaqortoq, Greenland
I found the oldest fountain in Greenland. After the tour group cleared out, that is.
Mindebronde Fountain in Qaqortoq, Greenland
I easily found the stone carvings right above the tender dock area. At first I thought I was going to have to climb the stairs...
stone steps in Qaqortoq, Greenland
but found the best of the carvings were on a paved path. Whew.
face stone carvings in Qaqortoq, Greenlandwhale stone carving in Qaqortoq, Greenlandschool of fish stone carving in Qaqortoq, Greenland
I discovered a church, a river, and statues.
Church of Our Savior in Qaqortoq, GreenlandBig Inuit Boot Statute in Qaqortoq, Greenlandlady sculpture in front of home in Qaqortoq, Greenland
Can't forget the flowers and road signs.
I discovered lots and lots of hills. Scooter and I tackled some and passed on others. We definitely passed on the stairs. Most definitely.
Qaqortoq, Greenlandpanoramic stairs in Qaqortoq, Greenland
When I'd had enough of the cold and fog and was already onto my backup battery I headed to the ship. I checked my photos to see where I had been and was pleased with the ground I covered. 
Looking at my health app today's number of steps (which really meant steps made while pushing a scooter up a hill) was the highest of the entire summer. Wow.

But more wow was to come. After I got back to the ship I took a verryyy long nap and woke up to this view off my balcony.
So what would used-to-be-adventurous and now-adventurous-again Deb do? Hop on a tender to get some more photos! But I didn't even need to leave the tender because bold, adventurous, spring-in-her step (hubby's words) Deb climbed to the top of the tender to get her pictures. 
Island Princess at anchor
A roundtrip tender ride for me, please. (I even parked the scooter under the stairs on deck 4 and walked limped to the tender.) And I found out there were actually mountains under all that fog.
colorful homes on hillside in Qaqortoq, Greenlandcolorful homes on hillside in Qaqortoq, Greenlandcolorful homes on hillside in Qaqortoq, Greenland
It turned out to be such a beautiful day. Even the pool deck was packed. Umm...we're in Greenland?!
Island Princess Lido deck
Oh, but the day didn't end there. On the tender ride back I had seen a little bit of smoke not far from town but didn't think much of it. Guess I should have because a couple hours later it turned into a mighty fire.
smoke from fire in Qaqortoq, Greenland
A helicopter was dispatched to help put out the fire so then I got to spend time watching a helicopter dumping water on it.
firefighting helicopter in Qaqortoq, Greenlandsmoke from fire in Qaqortoq, Greenland
You'd think that'd be enough excitement for the day. Nope. As soon as we left port we wound up with icebergs around us. It's hard to judge the size of these things but they are bigger-than-house size. They are everywhere!
icebergs in water in southern Greenland
Then there were the whales. (Sorry, no pics.) And just when I thought it couldn't get any better, this guy shows up off my balcony. 
icebergs in water in southern Greenland
Words fail me
Icebergs have been going by all evening and my crew member bud Pradnesh sent me a video of some of what we saw. Check it out!
The sun has gone down, I’m pooped and my body is shot, but tomorrow we're in Nanortalik, Greenland and I'll be there on the first tender again. See you there!
orange sunset with icebergs in Greenland
A Greenland sunset